Charlie and Steve's Excellent Adventure

September 20, 2014

While you were working – Mexico City

As we leave Mexico City we’re feeling officially like we’re getting into this trip. To be honest it’s been quite a haze of jetlag and aforementioned chilli induced shit-a-thon. But the question is…

Does Mexico City get the thumbs up?

The answer is simply a big yes! In planning this trip we quite consciously avoided the western world. Ticking that box, Mexico City also allowed a degree of relative comfort in getting into this new lifestyle. Having all the creature comforts you might need bar the hurdle of language, which isn’t really a hurdle at all, it’s a gentle introduction into a new culture. It’s worth saying again, the food is astounding, we expected good food from Mexico but this is just outrageous. The metro system is fantastic and the history is mind blowing. yes Mexico has already delivered in spades.
One observation is that Mexico City is a bit of a clash between being a heaving metropolis (approx 22 million) and a very culturally true town. Mexico City has little polish and glam, appearances are often more gritty, raw and functional. With a population that lives on the streets, Mexico City avoids the western trappings of iconic desire, the grace of Mexico City lies beneath the surface. We noticed that there were next to no tourists around, maybe this raw edge pushes them to other towns, who knows, but this city puts on a show all of its own, if you can’t see it, maybe it’s more a reflection on you.

What’s the most lasting impression to take from Mexico City?

Perhaps the most notable observation here is the the apparent attitude of the population. There seems to be an all pervading lack of narcissism, with a resulting friendliness, eagerness to help and courtesy which is quite a breath of fresh air. We see very few western food outlets or indeed any retail chains at all. There’s a lack of brand name fashion and showing off possessions seems to be non existent. Is it a tie in to the socialist leanings of prominent artists like Rivera and Kahlo, or is it that the cultural foundations are so old and rich that they’re less corruptible? Who knows really, definitely a three day tourist doesn’t know why but the thought is interesting. Mexico shares a border with the US yet seems to wholly reject the commercial culture of its biggest neighbour. How does arguably the greatest global cultural influence in recent decades get little traction right next door?
So Mexico City is a heaving mass of national pride and culture, staring western pretence in the face and sticking true to itself. It’s a messy, vibrant, fast paced statement on staying true to a culture, something these wannabe latte hippies find completely addictive. Just when you think that McDonalds, Coke and Starbucks are going to make the entire planet fat, here’s one of the worlds biggest cities showing the world that “commercial reality” as we like to call it doesn’t have to be the only means toward social decision making. So hats off to you Mexicans, these beardless hipsters gives you the big thumbs up.

Niños Heroes – Mexico City celebrating their child heroes – they do love a statue

September 20, 2014

Gluttony expedition- Part 1 of approx: 200

Street food:
It seems pretty clear that one eats food on the streets, indeed not only eat, it seems that Mexico City lives on the streets. Houses are often built right up to the footpath with little or no outward presented living space, they’re often just walls. So Mexicans live life in the streets, they show affection on the street, they trade and earn a living on the streets and indeed they eat like kings from simple stalls and carts scattered everywhere. And by everywhere, this means seriously everywhere. From freshly squeezed juices and granola shakes to meats and heavenly fried goodness, the streets have it all.
On our first night we had the best tacos in the world, from there we’ve had all manner of stuff we can’t pronounce, the running theme is that it’s all amazing. We’ve had a few more posh meals at restaurants which have all been great also, including steaks, enchiladas and mole but the street food has us captured. It’s rare that a food is cheap, great, quick, cultural and lively with no drawback at all.

Chilli:
So lets get it out of the way, everything has chilli, there’s no avoiding it. Apparently there’s about 70 varieties of chilli in common use in Mexico City. Chilli is in everything and it permeates the flavour of food here. Surprisingly the chilli isn’t essentially that hot, I guess the Mexicans are just such experts working with it that it’s flavour without the pain. Walking past any street stall the aroma of chilli is intoxicating, its a true essential base to flavour.
There is one drawback though… chilli does go through the body quicker than a polly through taxi vouchers! Safe to say we’re best mates with porcelain thus far. We mentioned that we have had upset stomachs to a guy in a cafe in Coyoacan in the south of Mexico City. He immediately laughed and said that it’s Monteczumas revenge, revenge indeed! but the weird thing is that whenever a meal comes out we load up on the guacamole and salsas, they’re just so awesome and the combination of the food and the accompaniments is just like nothing we have at home. So gimme all you have Mexico, I can find a toilet anytime.

Mercado:
Mercados are markets and tend to house the elements of street food with a more communal feel. The vendors usually have a slightly more advanced cooking setup so you can get a few more things that aren’t as often seen in street stalls. The market in Oaxaca is a great example of this with food, clothing, alcohol, sweets and you name it whatever else available.
The meal we had here is a great example of what sets a Mercado aside from a street stall. We were harassed into a seat and handed a broad flat bowl like basket and asked to make a selection of vegies. Once done we were pushed along to a kind of informal butcher with all sorts or raw meats on display. Not so confident with Spanish yet I was able to say enough for two men, and we’re hungry (yes, Charlie has insisted I learn how to say I’m hungry in Spanish). So we sit down not sure if we’ve got it right but we kinda think we have. Being unsure who’s part of the communal setup and who’s a random hawker we get some fried grasshoppers and tortillas.
So the question begged… what are we gonna end up with?
Basically half a butcher shop of flame grilled goodness, meats and vegies. Throw in salsas, guac and salad and we’re in hungry Charlie (getting hungry/ angry, need food now) heaven.

Tortillas:
If the chilli is the sun then corn tortillas are the moon. Chillies’ partner in aroma at any street stall is the corn tortilla. Either encasing some goodness or used as extra cutlery to dip or swipe up your food the tortilla is a staple to nearly every meal. But not to be written off as a bland bit of starch, the tortillas here are seriously tasty. Its really obvious that Australia doesn’t really do Mexican food very well en masse.
As well as the importance of the tortilla in balancing meals it’s also quite an art form making them. Perching up at a stool at a small kiosk you will often see the big bowls of very soft sticky dough. The way the vendors handle the dough, portion it, shape it and prepare it for pressing is quite amazing. The dough gets put into a small clamp type device and is smashed into the flat circular shapes we know. The process is simple enough but to smash out a tortilla about every 30 seconds which includes cooking them is really something to see.

Not sure what I ordered – Ordering food at a mercado.

September 18, 2014

TOP-10… Things to know about Mexico City

1- Great street food. Whatever the vendor says… Just say ‘si’, it’s gold. Street tacos are about 70c each and they’re a tiny little orgasm in a tortilla.

2- Don’t expect to find a public toilet anytime quickly. I managed to use a cafe toilet and nearly started a punch up. A very proud Mexican was pissed off that the owner allowed me and denying him citing (in very good English) “fucking discriminatory asshole”…. Oops.

3- Mexicans love Mexico. Expect to be asked plenty “do you love Mexico” not like… Love. Haven’t tested saying no and thankfully don’t have to.

4- Where are the bloody tourists?… #onlywhitepeopleintown

5- Best weight loss program ever… Everything has chilli and flavours hit you in the face. You eat and you poo then you have a little lie down. Apparently it’s called monteczumas revenge.

6- Getting on and off the metro is more like a cattle stampede, just push. Ladies-push, children-push, elderly-push, hot guy-really push!

7-Mexico City is like a fierce lesbian, she’s gritty, vivacious, lively, smart, cool and fashionable… But not ‘pretty’.

8- No need to ‘get a room’, just do it in public. Locals seem very open to public affection so, Mexicans, get your pash on! We salute you.

9- So Spanish isn’t necessarily ‘Mexican’. The European Spanish phrase book isn’t as helpful as you’d like. Just when you thought you said something right

10- Apparently all the angry gangsta Mexicans have moved to California. Super friendly, big smiles and very happy to help. Shame on you American TV!

September 16, 2014

Show me a Casino!

The sun we’ve been racing towards threatens the horizon casting a hopeful halo slicing a line in the darkness, this time behind us rather than before an untrodden path. Trapped in a sliding moment between two lives we occupy a space too small that offers too little light; of any tone. Time passes and time stands still, the eternity of this drawn out moment defies a clock face that won’t reveal a passing hour of droning hum and a life of convenience just for one. Ladies and gentlemen please fasten your seat-belts, stow your tray tables and place your seats in the upright position, evacuation is in progress. We’re somewhere between the hubbub of elevated consciousness our lives have been recently and the mental vacuum that is leaving life somewhat behind.

As our lives slip away like a continent slipping off the screen of an in flight map we await the flashing moment that this adventure begins. Our thoughts for now are still prying free from the journey that has been saying farewell. Be it rugby triumph, a last day at work, the drunken farewell party, family gatherings, packing up a house or a Sunday family breakfast, our hearts still throb to the pounding of those that refuse to go quietly. To be expected was the hugs, the well wishes and the kind words of appropriate departure. Less expected was the emotional punch so disabling behind the guise of the familiar. The love we’ve felt, held within those who we are close with, has been an irresistible force kept still in the pen of daily propriety. The sudden rush, to us and from, has been a beast of a feast and we ate hungrily. Who knew feeling love was so exhausting?

So now we’re on this trip of a lifetime, leaving behind a lifetime after having the time of our lives. It’s testament to the people we’ve left behind that despite the excitement of the future, we’re eddied in the recent past, a vacuum of space now created but we’ve not yet arrived to fill it. The love we will take with us, it’s the people we’ve temporarily left behind. That love will see the world and when we return we’ll share it back but for now that love is an ocean away, the other side of that space in time when the clock says there’s been no passing of time at all.

There’s a haze hanging thick above us, we’re surrounded by flashing police lights, fast chatter we can’t understand and intermittent explosions from directions we struggle to determine. Our eyes dart to a sense of high alert yet still that haze clings to us sticky on our skin, we can’t shake the tiredness from our shoulders that contradicts this enlivened scene in which we find ourselves. Again an explosion rings out somewhere in this urban jungle littered with refuse and disrepair as another police car drifts ethereally past the two of us haunched in our footpath step. From our safe worlds now so far away we sink into shadows hiding in this dangerous scene yet feeling no danger.

The man that has been looking at us keeps his eagle eye fixed, we sip beers deftly hidden behind our heels like defiant minors, still he watches and still the police pass by. From the bland world of sterile air travel we are assailed now; colours, smells, sounds and tastes threaten to wrench off the cloak of haze that hides us. In this strange world in which we find ourselves we are a bubble, a bubble for two. We speak to no one and no one speaks to us, our world an invisible capsule no more distant than a reaching arm. Charlie’s eyes dart apprehensively before taking a gulp of beer before hurrying it back to the nook he’s created by his heel. Still the man in front of us watches, his gaze lingers before holding up four fingers. Charlie looks down at our empty plates and holds up eight fingers.

A wry smile crosses the mans lips, his white apron dirtied by a long days work as his hands dart subconsciously around his small street side cart. Another police car drifts by drawing a pause to my reach for a beer forcing a temporary pause before I take my sip to the sight of tail lights rounding a corner. Our hands are covered in chilli just as our lips are glossy from the oil off the lamb while we watch fixated as the man before us makes good on his promise for more. Mouths ablaze with flavours so opposed to the bland world of air travel we slowly slide off that haze from our shoulders and our eyes. Explosions ring out in the urban warfare air that is our world now, somewhere between this moment of delightful danger and a time before we stepped foot on a plane this evacuation began. We didn’t see when it started, we just know that it has.

The bounty from our silent sentry is presented on a beckoned finger and met with notes we are yet to be familiar with in a hand outstretched just hopeful it’s enough. A red plastic plate and a green plastic plate have both seen better days but the eight tacos on the plates are made perfect for this day alone. They will not see beyond the next two minutes let alone to another day. The explosions ring out in advance celebration of Independence day, the street stall pumps out tacos to wrench us back to life as they do every day and the police, they’re out every day in the arm wrestle of order that is this city. From the grit of semi decay comes a vibrant life so impossibly alive. This evacuation has begun with the two of us stooped tight, our bubble now burst in the flavours of street tacos, Mexico City the first destination on a journey we can barely believe has arrived.

September 16, 2014

When does this thing start?

We’re on the plane, in the hazy din of air travel, very little in this world is more than a blur. We’re somewhere in that phase between the hubbub of excitement our lives have been and the mental vacuum that is leaving life somewhat behind. It’s beginning to tip over the edge but the question has been nagging…. when does the holiday start.

For now our bodies are in a tube somewhere above the US and not far from touching down in Mexico City. Our thoughts however are still prying free from the journey that has been saying farewell. Be it rugby triumph, last day at work, the drunken farewell party, family gathering, packing up a house or a Sunday family brekky, the ride was fast and wild.

To be expected was the hugs, the well wishes and the kind words. less expected was the emotional punch behind the guise of the familiar. The love we’ve felt, held within those who we are close with, has been an irresistible force. Kept still in daily propriety the sudden rush, to us and from, has been a beast of a feast and we ate hungrily.

Who knew feeling love was so exhausting?

So the love we have taken with us, it’s the people we’ve temporarily left behind. That love will see the world rest assured, it’ll go with us all the way. When we return we’ll share it back, love that makes the trip will settle in its place again.

August 16, 2014

Tell us where to go….

You’ve wanted to for years, go on, admit it… now’s your chance to finally tell us where to go.

Not the wisdom of the interweb, 12 downloaded versions of Lonely Planet or the might of a Charlie Winn spreadsheet juggernaut has helped. It turns out that the world is a fairly big place and there’s more to it than the spreadsheet or late night christian TV can handle… heaven forbid!

From capturing the last gasp of a cuban lifestyle before the tide of commercial westernisation to diving the caves of Yucatan, you, the throbbing masses have inspired our journey already. And we’ve barely scratched the surface of Central America.

So we need you! Where have you been? What experience has changed your life? What’s the once-in-a-lifetime? The best meal you’ve ever had?

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Follow our excellent adventure by clicking the follow button at the bottom of the page and, literally, tell us where to go. We’re rabid sponges waiting to soak up all your hopes and dreams, so, play your part will ya 🙂

July 13, 2014

It’s a Lonely Planet…or is it?

We’ve bored everyone to death for years now about our great adventure and now, amazingly, it’s finally happening. So come to the farewell that is not a farewell at all. Joint us in a pre-emptive window to our journey, and yours.

The Lonely Planet party is set for Saturday the 13th Sept 2014 at Playbar, 72 Campbell St Sydney from 8pm.

Be part of the excellent adventure. We’re frequenting a bunch of countries and here’s your chance to join us. Come dressed as an offensive cliche of any country we’re going to. And lets have this said just once, too outrageous is never outrageous enough!

Here’s where we’re planning on going….
– Mexico
– Cuba
– Bolivia
– Peru
– Ecuador
– Columbia
– Argentina
– South Africa
– Botswana
– Zambia
– Nepal
– China
– Laos
– Cambodia
– Thailand
– Vietnam
– Singapore
– Japan

So join us! And don’t worry if you can’t come visit us around the world, we’ll enjoy it all for you.